miji
our journeys as outsiders
nuanced sri lanka
1.16.12
Anuradhapura, another one of my favorite spots, mostly because of a nighttime ride of eerily lit up dagobas, some of which look like they are on fire through the camera lens…an invigorating sight after a long day of biking (and sweating).
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1.16.12
The sweaty climb to Sigiriya is met with ancient ruins and a gorgeous 360 degree view of Sri Lankan countryside. Steps were once etched into steep cliffs. Our path is easier…with rickety metal ladders and steps stuck into the mountainside.
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1.15.12
Elephants! Too many to count! Got sick of them, so many elephants…Mmm…elephant gumbo, elephant skewers, elephant jam…yum!
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1.15.12
More to come on the research soon but wanted to get to the touristy stuff first…photos are more fun. First off, Dambulla, a series of caves with Buddha statues and paintings. One of my favorite places in Sri Lanka…mostly because I could go crazy with the camera, more than anything else.
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1.6.12
Truth in Aid: What do you do when the crowd is coaching the person you’re interviewing to tell the worst story possible about the tsunami? To overemphasize what they lost? To tell what little that they had received?
I understand the sentiment. All these foreigners come in for interviews and then resources get passed out. Of course I would tell the story that tugs at the heartstrings. But the stories have become larger than life. Everyone lost a boat during the tsunami, even those who were not fishermen. No, I did not receive anything from the government or from NGOs, except for the 350,000 grant from the government to rebuild my house.
It’s confusing. I don’t know what to believe and I hate myself for not fully believing the stories that I am hearing. Who am I to make these judgements? People lost enough as it is, does it really matter if the stories are not fully true?
It does when I hear stories that those who did not lose the most are receiving the most aid. When I consistently hear that those who lost everything did not receive. Then, it matters if what one is saying is true. There is a lot of anger towards NGOs because they did not pass out funding equitably. I get angry too….but then I realize, if I were that NGO, how would I make a decision within all this confusion? Could I pretend that I could do any better?
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1.6.12
Ethics of Research: This trip has made me think about the ethics of such research. Is there any point in me dredging up traumatic memories just for the benefit of my own research. It makes me feel selfish and sick to my stomach, when people recount the family members they have lost. My research will not add any value to the lives of those I am interviewing. Some know this but do it anyway. Some have heard me tell them this but secretly believe that some resources will come their way.
Somewhere along the way on this trip, I decided to not do this type of research again, unless I am in charge of some program development where I need grassroots feedback, this type of research is just not worth it.
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1.1.12
New Year’s Day started off with prayers at the local Buddhist temple and then watching fishermen at work in Kinniya, making me contemplate the value and length of 2 hours.
What have you spent 2 hours doing lately? Watching tv? Doing homework? Working? Eating? Checking facebook? Chatting with a friend?
How about bringing in a fishing net that is 2 kilometers out to sea? I watched for 2 hours as about 20 men on two sides of a long beach dragged in this net together. The person at the end coming up front as the men stepped in unison and step-by-excruciating-step, brought in this net together.
2 hours in the pounding sun and oppressive heat. The first hour and a half, they are bringing in rope, the net so far away in the sea. Closer and closer and closer until finally the net is close. And finally the net is being brought in. And finally the celebration. Men from all over the beach help bring the net in.
But the celebration is anticlimactic. Maybe 20 kilos of fish to share amongst all those men who have spent all morning setting up the net, casting it and dragging it in. There are no cheers, just business as they clear the net of the fish and divide up the catch.
Without rest, they start again. They will continue from 6AM to midnight to bring in the money they need for a day. An incredible and arduous way to live a life. (use piclens)
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1.1.12
New Year’s Eve in Trinco was celebrated on our guesthouse rooftop with a 360 degree view of the city. People were letting off fireworks everywhere in a motley display of Trinco’s finest. Firecrackers being sent into houses. Pops in front of the guesthouse left my ears ringing. From kilometers away, we could watch the whole city celebrate. A beautiful thing.
Here’s to 2012, a short one this time. Just the moon setting in Trinco, a nightshot with the sacred Hindu Temple on the cliff in the background and the stars above our heads. (use piclens)
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12.30.11
Until I figure out how to have 2 blog pages…this is the way it’s going to be.
Today I stumbled upon the last day of a Ganesh Festival in Trincomalee. It’s a 10 day festival, and we happened to make it for the final celebration. Love when that happens!
Also been traveling 2.5/2 hours one way each day for the last week or so to do interviews, including some at an internally displaced persons camp, but no energy to write about that now. So just photos
*Use piclens*
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12.27.11
Just scraping the surface of complications here…ethnicity mixed with religion mixed with history mixed with geography mixed with tsunami mixed with war. Where to start? It’s starting to unravel but will take some time. And I hope that I am blessed to make some sense of it over the next few weeks.
Landed at 4:30AM in Colombo, Wandered around the city. National Museum. Ancient urinals. Sim cards…fun stuff.
Next day climbed Sri Pada atop which is the footprint of Buddha, Shiva or Adam depending on whether you are Muslim, Christian, Hindu or Buddhist. Maybe the only mountain that calls pilgrims from so many faiths. Started the 5km hike up 1000m at 2:30am, arrived by 5:15am to see the non sunrise (it was cloudy)…so no triangular shadow for me. But amazing to see the footprint. Placed my head to the base while a monk said a prayer. Shivering cold feet submitting to constant rain and wind. Exhilirating as dawn lit the misty mountaintops around us and puja was held. Worth the wobbly knee climb down and the muscle pain for days afterwards…
Next stop Trinco: World’s oldest Stupa. A sign that tells children not to touch landmines. An ancient Hindu temple perched atop a rugged cliff with crashing waves below. Flaming coconuts smashed. Monkeys picking up the pieces. Intricate temple exteriors. Colorful prayers tied to branches. The pounding of waves on cliff below.
Now: Research: More positive deviant entrepreneurs but in a post-disaster/post-conflict setting. As I write this, it is the 7th anniversary of the Tsunami. It is still difficult for some to relive that day…but life has gone on…recovery happened…mistakes have been made by NGOs and others…more to come.
Photos first: (Use piclens)
